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Vintage Glycine Airman Special, Ref. 323.1119

While the Rolex GMT-Master is often credited with the dual-time complication, the Glycine Airman was actually the first purpose-built watch capable of tracking two 24-hour time zones, debuting in 1953, a full year before its Rolex counterpart. Designed in direct response to the requirements of actual pilots, it featured a unique 24-hour dial and a patented locking bezel system. By the 1960s, the Airman became the unofficial watch of the Vietnam War, favored by U.S. Air Force pilots who purchased them at military PX (Post Exchange) stores for their ruggedness and 24-hour military time layout.  

The "Special" designation on this dial marks a quirky piece of history. To bypass steep U.S. import taxes on high-jewel movements, Glycine produced this 17-jewel version specifically for the American market. This specific "Block-Text" model represents the final evolution of the classic 36mm silhouette before the brand transitioned to the high-beat SST designs in the early 1970s.  

 

 

Specifications

• Reference: 323.1119
• Model: Airman Special (17-Jewel US Export Version)
• Movement: Transitional A. Schild Automatic with rare middle-position quick-set date function.
• Case Material: Stainless Steel
• Case Diameter: 36mm
• Bezel: Bidirectional 24-hour rotating bezel with secondary locking crown at 4 o'clock.
• Dial: 24-hour layout with Block-Text "Special" branding.
• Water Resistance: Original "Waterproof" rating (vintage standard).
• Era: Circa 1969–1971.

Condition Notes

• Case: Super sharp and unpolished with crisp lug edges and original factory finishing.
• Dial & Hands: Pristine dial with original lume and hands in excellent condition.
• Bezel: Super sharp with original numeral filling intact; rotates perfectly and the lower locking crown is fully functional.
• Crowns: Both original crowns are present and in excellent mechanical order.
• Crystal: Original acrylic crystal featuring the period-correct date magnifier (cyclops).
• Bracelet: Rare, factory-original Glycine-signed Oyster-style bracelet with crown-stamped clasp.
• Service: Freshly fitted with new gaskets to ensure the EPSA Compressor case back is secure.

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